LABELS: The Finishing Touch for Sewn Garments

I've been using labels in my sewn garments for decades, but some don't.  Here are some pics of ones I have.

The quality went down so good thing I bought when I did.  In some clothes when they are ready for the trash bin, the labels still look so good that I remove them to be used on a newly sewn garment.  Some new ones don't last too many years or washings.

So, why the difference?  It's woven vs. printed.  The colors and letters wear off from the printed ones.

There are companies which sell online---and are of good quality.  The problem is sometimes they must be ordered in bulk.   I get bored easily and like to change often so like having choices of style and designs.

If you have a favorite place from which to order, put the info in the comments.

I did a search and found my style.  They are 10 for $19.  You can see the prices I paid for mine.  Granted it was many years ago.  (The prices I wrote on the packages include tax or were bought after a price increase; hence, the seemingly incorrect math.)

Man's Caftan in Black

 

I have sewed!  Shocking I know.  Hubby needed a replacement caftan for the one I had previously sewn.  This is my third from this pattern which is based on the first one I had bought for him in the 80s.  The first three were brown and the original had gold and brown tones in it in a striped manner. 

Since I hadn't been to a fabric store since pre-Covid I had to pick out fabrics from my stash.  It had to be something with enough fabric, not girlish, and not printed.

There were three choices:  a cream corduroy which I ruled out because I'd probably be washing it every week; a cranberry corduroy which I really wanted for myself; and a black denim.  I let him select and he chose the black.  That leaves enough for me to make either a jacket or slacks for myself.

Then I had to find fabric for the bands.  I really didn't want to use something which would mean cutting up a piece which wouldn't leave enough for me to make something for myself.  I found this small piece of weaver's cloth in the stash.

I'm not certain why--but possibly because I've not made a garment in awhile--this caftan caused all kinds of problems...stupid stuff mostly, so I'm going with "user error"!  It's really an easy pattern so there should be no excuse for it.  Guess I was just out of practice..  It was mostly undoing what I had stitched.  Sigh.

I didn't want to use topstitching on the bands so put it on the denim next to the bands, so I had allowed for the underside of the bands to be caught by this but it didn't always work this way, so had to "unstitch" portions.

There was a lot of changing of the top and/or bobbin thread.  This was not really necessary as mostly it wouldn't show but I wanted it to match.  At the very end of the project, on the ends of the hem bands I gave up changing threads because I wanted it done and at this point hubby was asking if it was finally done yet.  LOL

Hubby is pleased with it and says that the denim feels warm and comfortable plus doesn't wrinkle much.  Yay!  The denim is a medium weight, I would guess.

I've been calling the trim cranberry but it's not really that color.  What color is it?  Thoughts on that?  I see that I probably should have shaped the band around the neck for a better fit.  Next time!

It felt good to be sewing again.  :)

Close up of bottom of side bands:

The very last sewing step:

Here's the link to the caftan I previously made 

https://gloriastitches.blogspot.com/2012/05/mans-caftan.html 

Seventy-Year-Old Cups

 When I see these cups I am reminded of my wonderful aunt.

When I was a little girl and we'd visit my grandparents she would stop by to see us, grab a cup of coffee using one of these cups.

There are numbers on the bottom which are for the design.  I have two each of three.

On the bottom is printed "Made in Germany".  Thus, these cups would have to be from pre-war (that's WWII) or just a few years after the war.

Auntie would have been too young to purchase them before the war, so after; or my grandparents had owned them which I highly doubt as these were not the usual type of item they would have bought.

The cups couldn't have been brought back by my uncles because neither was anywhere near Germany during the war.

I am amazed that these seventy-plus-year-old cups are still in great condition, with no chips.  The gold on the rim and on the cups is still there.

They are not used often because they can't go in the dishwasher nor in the microwave.  Since my dishwasher is not working and I've been handwashing, I do grab one of these for my cuppa.

Here's to you, Auntie.

Update:  I've been told that these cups could be older than from the 40s.  They could be the 30s or even the 20s.  If that is true, then where did they come from?  There is no one left to ask.  I'll have to do some researching on them.

Tiffany Auction

Several years ago an auction house had a lot of Tiffany items available.  I took pictures of a good portion of them and thought others might be interested in seeing them.  I didn't take any notes so don't have information to offer.  I checked back later and if I remember correctly some of the lamps went for $2x,000.  No, we didn't bid on any of these.  Enjoy.  Click on pic to make larger.

 Major correction:  hubby said the lamp in the first photo went for $16x,000.  I thought 20 something seemed quite low.

Bernina and Adapter for Low-Shank Feet

Bernina's sewing machine feet are unusual and work only with Bernina machines, plus quite expensive but built to last.

There is a way to expand usage of the machine without paying a small fortune for their feet---and it may already be in your household.

Here are pics of my Bernina 910 (mid 80s), my Riccar (late 70s), and my White 4042 (early 2000s)  Click to see larger pictures.

Though the feet for the Riccar and the White look very much alike they are not exchangeable for the most part because the needle opening in the feet are either too far forward or too far back.  However,  they can be used on the Bernina!

Here's how:
You will need a low-shank adapter.  They come in a choice of for snap-on or for screw-on feet and are available for old stye (OS) (through the 1630--am almost positive on this model) and for new style (NS).  If your feet have red, then they are new style.  (approximtely after '98).  The adapters are in the range of $18-26.

(Caught my error. The models 1xxx-1630 are still old style, but old old style feet, like the barrel style foot on my Bernina, will not fit them, but feet for these models will fit back through these old machines.   I believe some of these models do have red, but are quite different from the models which followed and are considered new style.  To make things more complicated Bernina began repeating model numbers.  Why, Bernina, why?  Did you run out of numerical digits to use?)

Upper pic is the adapter next to the regular sewing foot.  Lower pic shows the adapter added in place of the regular foot.

However, you may need just the adapter for screw-on feet.  What you do is take the ankle from the non-Bernina machine and attach to the Bernina low-shank screw-on adapter.  Then the snap-on feet for other machines will fit on the Bernina!  Aha!  

Here is a pic with the ankle from my Riccar attached.
Next are two examples of feet from my Riccar attached to the Riccar ankle.  (No pics of the same with the White but they worked also, using the White ankle and the White feet).

This will save you money because you won't need a separate low-shank snap-on foot adapter for the Bernina---unless you want one.  This is great for feet that you won't be using often.

This will open more opportunities for your Bernina.  It won't add any utility stitches, but just expand sewing techniques without putting out all of that extra money for those Bernina feet.

These machine feet are 4-5 mm.  I have a Pfaff also but it is 9 mm and I'm not certain that it would be a good idea to put thse wider feet on the narrower Bernina feed dogs.

Here I've put the very narrow (3mm) foot from an old Singer on and I probably wouldn't use it as it doesn't cover the feed dogs.

Non-Bernina rufflers, of any age, should work, using the adapter, but be certain to test (as with all feet).  I was able to use the same ruffler on a variety of machines and on the Bernina, using the adapter.

Further information:
Just in case you have this White (model 4042) and possibly 4040 is similar, it takes the same bobbins as this Bernina.

The Case of the Flyaway Straight Pin

Alternate title:  How I Spent My Friday Morning

In the process of trying on my newly sewn pants with its generic trial waistband, I went into the closet to get the portable full-length mirror.  Something grabbed the waistband on the way out.  It was the groove/hole for the latch on the doorframe.  Oh, no, I thought, and checked the pants and nope, no hole and no pulled threads nor snags.  Whew!  However....

....one of the straight pins holding the band on had gone AWOL.  I made a quick check of the area and no pin in sight.  I checked on hands and knees next, using my super light, running my hand through the carpet fibers---and still no pin.  Since it's a low pile it would  be easy to spot.

Then I spotted the white pin head about three feet away, but that's all it was---the pin was not attached!  I continued to check carpet in all areas I thought the pin could possibly go;  I checked my person;  I checked my newly sewn pants.  The pin was definitely hiding quite well from me.

By now I've checked the carpet  a few times.  I have four choices:
1) continue looking
2) try vacuuming and hopefully---and maybe falsely---expecting it to be picked up
3) execute the most trustworthy of operations to find a missing sharp object:  going barefoot
4) quit looking and hope for the best

I must continue to look for the pin as I don't want my hubby's foot to find it.  After all, it's not his fault---nor mine either---but I am responsible for the event which led up to this.

Once more I go over the carpet, expanding the area to be covered slightly.  Nope, no luck.  This was exasperating me.  Where else could the pin be?  Well, it could be anywhere.  I have the lower rod for my blouses so decided to check them.  I would grab 2 or 3, shake them, then check the carpet.  When I was almost half-way through....there it was!!  There was the pin, no longer AWOL.  Oh, thank you, thank you, thank you.

I picked up the pin and saw what had happened to it.  As seen in the photo one end of it had been bent into a 90 degree angle---a factory perfect right angle---which was quite impressive.

A lot of luck had been in play since the pin had given way and not done any damage to my yet unfinished pants.  I breathed a sigh of relief...well, more than one.

And that is how I spent Friday morning.

Big 4 now Big 1?

In case you haven't heard the ol' Big 4 are now what could be called the Big 1.  The business which had bought out McCall's has purchased Simplicity.

Thus, the pattern companies will be in competition with each other within the same company.  This is nothing new in business as General Mills, Procter and Gamble and others do the same thing.

So, how will things change?  We don't know, but my guess is that it will be "business as usual" with each pattern brand name keeping its own policies and fit as usual.  Perhaps if one of them falters in sales, it could be eliminated.

It's sad to see this happen as people may like a certain brand over the others, so let's hope that not too far down the road they don't merge into one brand.

As of last year it was KwikMcVogueRick, now it's going to be SimpKwikMcVogueRick.  Sigh.

http://www.businesswire.com/news/home/20171103005428/en/CSS-Industries-Acquires-Simplicity-Creative-Group

There, their....and they're

There, their, and they're are three different words, pronounced the same but spelled different.  They are homonyms.  So, where to use which?

Since I'm good with helping others with word associations I have been asked to please share.

There:  notice that the word here is in there.  So, it's not here, but there.

Their:  notice that the word heir is in their.  So, they (each being an heir)  inherited the house and it is now their house.

They're:  notice the apostrophe.  This means that a letter---or letters--has been omitted.  In this case the letter a.  In full it would be they are.

Other words with apostrophes are jack-o'-lantern, o'clock, O'Leary, ma'am, etc. which indicate that a letter--or letters--has been omitted.

Thus, there:  not here, but there.
         their: each an heir so their house.
         they're:  omitted letter, a in this case.  Also, if the other two don't fit, it must be this one.  :)

Then there is it's and its.

It's has an apostrophe, so an omitted letter, in this case i (it is) or ha (it has).  

It's raining = it is raining.  It's rained = it has rained.

Its is a rare possessive as it doesn't have an apostrophe like Jim's books, boys' bats, or deer's tail.

If a letter has been left out, (it's), then use this word. If showing possession, then use its.

Knitted Scarf for a Gift

 I wanted to gift a knitted scarf.  Finally, a project!  I'm not certain where I got the stitch pattern, probably from a friend.  It is an easy one.

I casted on 26 stitches with size 8 needles with Red Heart Soft.   It is approximately 5 1/2" x 36" and be wrapped one more time around the neck.

The pattern is 
Row 1:  *k2, knit into back of next stitch, purl 1*, until the last 2 stitches, k2.
Repeat this row the entire length you want the scarf.  It took roughly 3 oz.

I'm not certain what happened to the color with the first two photos.  The photo below is more what the color looks like which is Grape. 

OK, so it's not much as far as making things this year, but I'm going to do my best to get a lot more accomplished in 2017.

Happy New Year, everyone!

Applesauce Cake

It is rare for me to post about a recipe but it's rare for me to be sewing these days. :(  This is my husband's grandmother's recipe and has been tried and eaten by at least three generations.


2 cups sifted cake flour
1 t. baking soda
1/2 t. salt
1 t. cinnamon
1/2 t. allspice
1/4 t. cloves
1 cup seedless raisins
1/2 cup shortening
1/2 t. vanilla (adjust as desired)
1 cup sugar
1 egg, beaten slightly
1 cup thick, sweetened applesauce


Sift first 6 ingredients together; stir in raisins.  Using large bowl cream shortening, vanilla and sugar together thoroughly.  Add egg; beat until light and fluffy.  Add dry ingredients alternately with applesauce, beating after each addition.  Pour into greased pan, approximately 11" x 7".


Bake @ 350 degrees about 45 minutes


I haven't made this in awhile; perhaps it's time. :)

Crafting--How I Would Have Done it Differently

Knitting--(large) stash of yarn, patterns, and supplies--Check
Crocheting--(large) stash of yarn, patterns, and supplies--Check
Cross Stitching--(large) stash of yarn, fabrics, patterns and supplies --Check
Sewing--stash of fabrics, patterns, notions and supplies--Check
Misc. crafting--stash of supplies--Check


Since I've been purging the above in the past year, I've asked myself why I have so much of everything.  How did it happen and why?


Some of the reasons are
--get excited about the craft, find all kinds of projects I want to make, so buy the supplies
--find supplies on sale or have coupons for a large percentage off so must purchase while on sale.
--much like the person who has "eyes bigger than their stomachs" I have plans greater than that for which my energy or time allows.
--realize what's missing from my supplies and buy to fill in the gaps
--cannot resist when people give me large bundles of items for free--free is good.


Probably the #1 reason:
--have learned over the decades that if I don't buy when I see it, it won't be available when I want it.


This is most true of fabric.  So many times I went specifically for fabric for pants or for a blouse.  Being successful less than half the time I made it a point to buy the fabric  I liked when I saw it.


OK, this explains the fabric --and I have a fraction of what some do, but this is what started the entire stash of everything.  What's the excuse for floss or knitting patterns or embroidery thread or sewing patterns?


Probably none or at least not a good one; just that I liked it, was excited at that time about the craft, and might even have had a coupon.  Never having a lot of spare money, "on sale" was quite tempting.


The good part is the items purchased years ago were less money than that of today, saving me money.  Did it?  As I'm now donating some items, my "wisdom" didn't wind up saving me money.


The smart thing would be--and I would strive for today--to do things differently and purchase supplies as I needed them, not for the future, at least not quite so much for the future.


Or would I?  One thing I know about myself is that I like choices.  Sometimes on the spur of the moment I decide on a project.  Since it's generally late at night and knowing that locating something is not all that satisfactory at the store, it's good to have "my little store" to go to.


Why so much embroidery thread?  I was very excited when I got my embroidery machine and just kept buying thread (from several different companies) so I would have almost every shade with all the various types of thread:  metallic, silky, polyester and blends, cotton, for various projects.  My purchases added to whatever threads I already had for doing the "fancy" stitches on the sewing machine.


This would explain all the embroidery floss also.  To add to this collection, my mother-in-law would buy for me tons of it in those neat special boxes for floss.  How could I say to take it back; that I had enough already?


People have also given me bags of yarn, knitting and crocheting patterns, sewing patterns, notions and fabric.  You wouldn't catch me saying, "No, don't give me free stuff; I'd rather pay full price at the store."


Can't forget the fabric, supplies, yarn, and patterns, (sewing and knitting and crocheting) for The Doll.  You know which one:  the one who is named Barbie.  Besides what I had purchased, a friend from out of state sent four large boxes, mostly fabric, to me.  It was her fabric scraps.  Ha--my scraps are always small pieces; hers could be up to two yards.


Now, I have so much to go through and purge, but what, which?  There are some difficult decisions to be made!


I'm certain that I'm not the only one.  Anyone else have any stories that they would like to share--or laugh along with me, or shake their head along with me?

Ukrainian Easter Eggs (Pysanky)

Traditionally Ukrainian Easter is celebrated a week later than that of other Christians, so this year it is April 12.

My mother decorated eggs. Most of hers are now gone.  They would be several decades old.

The ones in the center are larger and are of wood.  I believe that they are painted, which was done in only the last few decades.  Well, they don't break!  Click on the pic for a larger view.

The ones from the past are done by the wax method and take hours and hours for just one egg.  The one example of my work when I was 4 years old is long gone.  It was a masterpiece.  

By the way the tradition began pre-Christianity.

You can do a search for more info and how the eggs were made.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pysanka

Sewing Machines From the Mid-Fifties

In an old McCall's magazine, Fall-Winter '55-'56 was an article about the latest features on machines.

The newest innovation was the automatic zigzag, which could do all that straight-stitch and manual zigzag machines could, plus do embroidery pattern stitches automatically.

They had discs or cams to be inserted or some were built into the machine.

Above are the machines they highlighted.  Unfortunately they don't mention the model # and that is not always visible on the machine.

If you have an older machine but don't know when it came out, perhaps it is shown here.  These machines would be from 1955 or possibly 1954.    The year could certainly be a place to start to find out more about your machine.

Pfaff 1475--some hints

Over the years I've come across those who were not aware of some of these functions of the Pfaff 1475.  They may be available on other models, but the 1475 is the one with which I am acquainted.  There are still a lot of this model in use.

When using the single needle foot and/or plate, there is a chance that the operator will forget and tap in a stitch which has width.  This is not good for the machine and could cause the timing to be off.  There is also the possibility that the needle could break and hit the operator in the eye.  Ouch.

There is a security measure:  touch the twin-needle button, (#29) which is lit showing it has been engaged.  It will prevent any stitch from sewing which is not a straight stitch.

The presser bar lifter has several positions: up (foot lifted), down (foot engaged) and darning.  In the photos, shown are up and darning.

When darning position comes in handy is when threading and using the threader.  It doesn't always catch the thread the first time and the thread keeps pulling off the spool.

Putting the presser foot in the darning (part-way) position tightens the tension disks so the thread won't unwind.  Be certain to do this only after the upper threading and lift it to the upper position for pulling up the bobbin thread.

To put it in this position it needs to be pushed toward the back.  If you're having a problem finding the position, check it from the back of the machine.

Then there is one more position for the presser bar lifter, which is temporary and must be held up.

When having a problem getting a hoop under the bar, lift this lever just a bit higher than the up position and the hoop should fit.  

This extra lift can also be used for extra thick materials and for darning.

When I first obtained this machine 23 years ago I spent a lot of time playing with it and learning what it could do.  After many weeks of this, my hubby asked me if I was ever going to sew anything.  Good question.

Sliding Buttonhole Foot--Pfaff 1475

The sliding buttonhole foot is one type of buttonhole foot.  It came with my Pfaff 1475 (on right) I obtained late 1991 and with my Riccar 808E obtained late 1978. (on left)

The red arrow indicates where the buttonhole will begin.  As you stitch the slider moves and the calibrated lines will help determine the buttonhole length.

How is this buttonhole length determined?  Many times I've read to put a tape measure around the button.  What?  A better idea would be to put a string around the button, then measure the string.

I have a different way of doing it which I have been using since the early 80s.

An old piece of scrap fabric was used upon which I stitched buttonhole to the lengths of each red mark and the half red ones.

It doesn't have to be anything fancy.  This was done on scrap fabric and buttonholes were mainly for length, not beauty.  After all,, no one else was going to see this but me. Ha!

Just slip the button through the buttonholes until the perfect size is found, then stitch the buttonhole to that length.

The Pfaff 1475 has fully automatic as well as semi-automatic buttonholes.  To determine which length of buttonhole to program in, use the strip for the button.  You will need to know how the red marks translate to metric as that is how most Europeon machines are programmed.  For example, notch 4 1/2 is 20 mm; notch 6 1/2 is 28 mm.

When using semi-automatic buttonholes on the Pfaff 1475 use 150 flashing.  When the first side reaches the length you want, proceed with the rest of the buttonhole.

For more accuracy and control I tend to use the semi-automatic mode as opposed to the fully automatic ones.  For years I've said that I should make a similar strip for my Pfaff 1475, but there is really no need as the red marks are the same on both buttonhole feet.

As usual, click on the pictures to enlarge.