Monday, December 20, 2010
I understand that it takes time to read blogs, and more time to comment on them, so I really appreciate it when readers do. I try to also post a comment so show my appreciation of the person's time.
Someone mentioned that people are commenting less which could be as some people have dozens of Followers or even over a hundred and I notice that they may get only 2 or 3 comments. This makes me value it even more when you comment on my blogs.
I'll try to post more entries in 2011 than I did this year as I have been asked quite often about when my next entry will be. (Glad you're interested.)
Edited to add: I just thanked my readers, (Followers and others) and those who comment and all the pics of my Followers disappeared! Yikes. I then checked and it appears that pics of Followers on others' pages are also gone. I hope everyone has returned by morning.
Wednesday, November 10, 2010
Sunday, September 12, 2010
Aren't all pants pullon? LOL.
TNT pair? Tried and true. Are these the elusive well-fitting pants I've been stalking for years?
These are not the way I would have wanted my pants to fit years ago. About thirty years ago a middle-aged friend of mine told me that pants should hang straight down in the back from the fullest part. I thought Hey, that's for old people and I'm not old. I want some definition in the back!
Well, I had my definition and probably many fit wrinkles. At that time I don't think I checked for wrinkling; I checked for fit.
Time has passed. I have made my pattern larger over the years for three reasons: 1) I have expanded 2) pants got looser fitting (although slim again in the last few years) 3) I have aged--I have aged?!--and want a little more ease, especially to hide the "bumps".
This last pic is to show typical pants on me. This pair, made December, 1990, from poly rayon gabardine aren't this bad. I adjusted them for the pic so they looked more like pants from the past fit because the worst pairs are gone; plus the others were in darker colors so would not show all the wrinkles.
Sunday, August 29, 2010
This is the first one I cut out--the one where I cut too much from the corners (see previous entry); thus, making it too snug when the darts were sewn in.
I needed a wedge (guess it could qualify as a godet). To make it as simple as possible, I:
--stitched about 1 1/2" of each "dart"; it would be more difficult to turn under the part near the point
--turned under the rest of the sides of the "dart"
--placed the piece which was the original cut-out square and pinned it in place
--topstitched the "dart" sides, catching the wedge piece
Then hemmed it and it's done.
Monday, August 16, 2010
Others doing Home Dec got me to pull out my fabric for two ottomans. The spots and one large burn hole need to be covered.
I bought the fabric two years ago when a Hancock's was closing. It was an unplanned purchase so I got a color I thought was close. I wanted two yards. The clerk said the minimum was five yards. I hesitated but got the five yards---good thing.
I had a plan as to how I wanted to do them, then went to Plan B and Plan C. I wound up with Plan A.
Plan B was to stitch the bottom part to the top. Problem: would involve too much excess fabric of the top part at the corners. Plan C was to make the cover in one piece. Problems: fabric wasn't wide enough. (Though I am good at estimating the fabric width of those folded on a bolt, I am not so good at ones not folded on a tube.) I thought this fabric was 60"; nope, it's 54". (But that wouldn't have caused me to buy more.) Thus, it would have to be seamed.
Another problem with a one-piece top falling straight down to the bottom was that the top part is pillow like and the bottom is on a wood frame, but they are attached. In order to get it wide enough for the bottom, there would be too much fabric on the corners of the pillow part. If I made them smaller to fit the pillow,
the fabric would flare out to fit the bottom part.
So, it was back to Plan A. The top is made much like you'd make a fitted sheet from a flat sheet. You measure the distance from the top of the corners down to end of the tuck under. It measured almost 9" , so, allowing 1/2" for a seam allowance, I cut out a square at each corner 8 1/4" x 8 1/4". The two cut edges are brought right sides together and stitched in a 1/2" seam.
Whoops. Although this had worked for me for a bed sheet, it was way too tight. I had measured too high up on the pillow. It wasn't quite so tight on the other ottoman, (they weren't the same size? ) but still tight. I wound up adding a wedge. I turned under the cut edges, put the wedge under and topstitched it in. (Not shown.)
On the second top piece which I had cut out, I wanted to allow enough fabric after cutting out the square corners so it would fit. I cut out the pieces 6" x 6" which wasn't enough. Seven inches each side worked.
Tuesday, July 13, 2010
There are quite a few pattern pieces to this: the front/back, sides and bottom, top, zipper pull, tabs, plastic pockets on the inside with bias bindings, plus the bias binding around the outer edges. The layers include the fabric, backing, batting, and plastic.
The original size is 2 1/2" x 12 1/4" x 9 1/2", a good sized one. However, I found that items fall to the bottom and give it a fat look, so I decided to make it smaller but deeper. The dimensions to this one are 4 1/4" x 10 1/2" x 7. Because the height is less I also picked a 14" zipper instead of the original 16".
Adding: I meant to make the math less confusing not more so! OK, to put it more simply, instead of having to measure the altered perimeter to determine what length to make the outside binding, measure the original and the new one, and substract the difference (or add it, if making larger) and substract (or add) that difference in the binding pattern piece. Hope this is easier!
Thursday, June 3, 2010
I had asked for suggestions and many were given, here and in e-mails.
Sew(very)Creative and FirePhrase said that the 80s were back and I might want to think twice about this.
Last week I found proof of this. Here is a blog entry showing a new McCall's pattern which has similarities. Note that one view on the pattern I used even has a tie collar. Note that this McCall's top is also in red!
Wednesday, June 2, 2010
Friday, March 19, 2010
As promised---months ago--a little more detail on the doll clothes. I had to wait to borrow someone's camera in order to have a macro capability. These aren't the best, but the photographer wasn't paid.
It's not too easy to describe my exact steps in making the clothes because once you get "her" diminsions down, you "just work" and try the garment on the doll every so often or measure to make certain it will fit.
Once you know your stitch and row gauge you can calculate how many stitches to chain or cast on based on the necessary dimensions.
This is just like any item from yarn. All the directions are doing for you is saving all the calculations (which is a good thing).
The knitted sweater and skirt outfit is made from a Bucilla yarn on size 3 needles. I love the stitch pattern. I tried several color combinations until I found one I liked. One thing I did was to make certain that the stripes match across the sweater when the sleeves are down. I rarely see this in adult sweater patterns.
The periwinkle outfit is made from Pinguoin Pingora Baby, begun on 3's, then worked on 4's above the flounces.
This is a fun pattern to do and the directions are easy: Beginning at the bottom, st. st (k 1 row, p 1 row) is worked for the distance desired. On the next row, k2, drop the next st. off the left needle, then drop every 4th st off the left needle as you knit across. (The space between the drops could vary depending on how far apart the drop stitch design.) At the end of desired flounce, continue in st.st. until piece measures the desired length. I love this stitch pattern. Imagine, a dropped stitch on purpose!
The varigated gown is crocheted on an E hook from knitting worsted yarn, (Red Heart Super Saver), which I don't use very often for doll clothes. Fingering yarn is preferred because it is so delicate as well as cotton crochet thread for crocheting, even though it takes much longer.
With this gown, I "just worked" for the most part. With yarn this thick it doesn't take too many stitches to get around the doll's waist. Just keep increasing or decreasing until it looks right and fits her. If it's not quite right, the stitches can be undone and crocheted again rather quickly.
Tuesday, January 26, 2010
I haven't been able to work on updating the red dotted outfit, but I have worked on getting some of the better fitting patterns made into "basics" from which to design or update. I thought that by posting that outfit and making that commitment, I would get to it sooner. Ha!
I'm still trying to get some good, close-up shots of the doll clothes to show details. Our digital camera is old so the pics aren't great. Someone with a new digital tried taking photos of them, but I don't think he understood just what it was that I was trying to show. Thus, we will have to re-shoot.
Heck, it took us about three hours to scan a photo! While the manual is good with detailing how to put paper in the machine (several pages), it is grossly lacking in "How to Scan Photos" and with what to do with them afterwards. Besides having to figure out how to crop this photo, we had to figure out how to avoid a color or clarity change. I wanted just the right cropping, while keeping the pic to a small size. I finally settled for whatever came out! Maybe we should have asked an 8-year-old to do it.
I have managed to keep up with others' blogs, anywhere from daily to at least once a week, depending on how often they post.
While I did get most of the mountains of paperwork down to hill size, I will still have to deal with taxes when all the forms have arrived.
I like mountains, but not of paper work.